Exploring West and Central Java: Jakarta, Yogyakarta and Bandung.
Japan has always been on top of my travel list. However due to a busy season, it was impossible to follow through with the visa formalities and requirements. Thus began my quest for a visa free destination, stumbling on Indonesia in the process. Fortuitously enough, my travel dates coincided with the internationally acclaimed Java Jazz Festival in Jakarta, making my destination choice a no brainer.
Under other circumstances the odds of travelling to Indonesia were rather slim for me, but the allure of the festival was strong. I relied on the travel insights of a good friend and fellow runner, Wilbert, for indispensable local knowledge. An aversion for tourist traps and the associated hordes of selfie-stick wielding zombies made me categorically avoid Bali and traverse the largest island of Java instead.
The Big Durian aka Jakarta
Jakarta is a colossal mess and just like the Durian, it evokes extreme emotions. While it might not have the charm of Saigon or the modern connectivity and creature comforts of Bangkok, it does have a rich tapestry of cultures once you get past the chaos.
Getting past this chaos does entail circumnavigating snail’s pace traffic and a fairly limited public transit system.
Jakarta is not a pedestrian friendly city. Pavements are practically non-existent. Most of my hopping around the city involved Ubers, riding GoJek motorbikes and the ubiquitous ‘Bluebird’ taxis. Thanks to the language barrier I found myself taking a few detours, ranging from the lunar New Year parade in Chinatown to deep in the slums though narrow alleyways.
One does have to exercise extra caution as petty thieves abound every street corner, especially around North Jakarta. From personal experience, it’s best you desist from taking your phone/wallet out whilst standing on a pavement close to the edge of a road. Bike thieves lurk round every corner and yours truly was the victim of a Vietnam style phone heist whilst waiting for an Uber.
My stay and travel within Jakarta was fairly limited. I set base in North Jakarta owing to close proximity to the Java Jazz Festival venue. This is a heavily local part of town and one won’t have easy accessibility to tourist conveniences. However major tourist attractions like the Monumen Nasional (National monument or as the locals call it ‘Monas’) along with the adjoining Merdeka Square, Istiqlal Mosque and the Jakarta Cathedral are reasonably close. Merdeka is a great place for enjoying some fresh air and ambling around, conveniently located next to Gambir Station, Jakarta’s main railway station for trains plying across Java. The most fascinating part of my limited time in this city was trotting through the lunar New Year’s Parade, truly a surreal experience of riding alongside human dragons brought to life with the raucous din of traditional Chinese percussion instruments.
Monumen Nasional - Because the obsession with phallic objects commemorating national sentiment is universal across all cultures.
Train ride to Yogyakarta (Jogja)
Since I had a few days to explore the island prior to the festival, I decided to visit the cultural capital of Indonesia: Yogyakarta, or as the locals refer to it as Jogja. This leg of my travel along with the rest of my trip was impromptu. After spending a day in Jakarta I booked my ticket on an executive train for IDR364000 or approximately USD25 via tiket.com, one of the main ticket portals in Indonesia. One can also procure a train ticket at an Indomart. But it’s best to book as far back advance as possible as tickets are often sold out, especially around weekends and during public holidays. Keep in mind that you are required to show the credit card with which you bought the ticket in case of an online purchase.
There are three classes in Indonesia: Executive, Business and Economy. All long distance trains are air-conditioned.
The executive trains depart from Gambir station. Whilst the executive trains are more expensive I can attest for the generous legroom, footrests and a rather capacious seating arrangement, well appreciated on a longer journey. The lower classes aren’t too bad either, though one would have to slum it on a longer journey.
Whilst there are night trains, I would strongly advocate taking the day train. The Javanese landscape and unending rice paddies are stunning and possibly best experienced by train.
You get an unending supply of Indonesian coffee to keep you awake throughout the journey along with delicious Indo staples like Mie Ayam and Nasi Goreng conveniently packaged. Toilets though not the cleanest are definitely a step above Indian railway standards and the trains are well maintained and clean. Another convenience is the availability of charging sockets on all the trains.
Yogyakarta
Yogyakarta or Jogja, as the locals call it is the cultural capital of Indonesia. Steeped in history and culture, this city is the seat of the historic Sultanate. The city takes you back in time with horse drawn carriages and the regal architecture of the Sultan’s palace. This erstwhile capital gives you an unadulterated experience of Javanese history and culture.
The city is fairly pedestrian friendly with its wide pavements, squares and gardens. I stayed along Maliboro Street. Whilst it does have a number of stalls during the day, this thoroughfare transforms into a bustling night market at dusk. One has access to some quality cuisine of the region. Thanks to the low ratio of foreign tourists, the prices are incredibly cheap. For about IDR10,000 (less than a dollar) I was able to have a full meal with chicken, rice and Sambal paste whilst sitting on a bamboo mat on a pavement and sipping iced green tea . Catfish (‘bebek’ in Indonesian), is extremely popular with the local populace. Unlike the cutthroat taxi drivers of Jakarta, smaller towns in Indonesia have some of the most friendly taxi drivers I’ve ever met. More than often your Uber driver will be more than happy to take you around town for a very reasonable sum of money. Furthermore these drivers are some of the most intelligent cab operators I have come across with fascinating insights into an assortment of subjects.
The city also lies in close proximity to the stunning 9th century Mahayana Buddhist temple of Borobodur and the historically significant Hindu temple compound ruins of Prambanan. The two temples are located in opposite directions, so if one has a fairly limited time in Jogja you could choose either. My perennial fascination with Buddhism made me choose the former. Surprisingly getting around to the temple proved easier than I imagined. I was fortunate to meet an extremely affable Uber driver (who also happened to be a metalhead and a diehard Queen fan), who agreed to take me the temple and Mount Merapi for a very reasonable IDR200000 (less than USD15).
Coffee Culture and Kopi Joss (Charcoal coffee)
The city is a coffee lovers paradise. I personally lost track on the number of cups of coffee I chugged down whilst sauntering along. What did surprise me the most was the presence of quality artisan hand brewed coffee right off the street, with options like the Hario V60, French press to local brewing methods. These street side baristas take immense pride in their craft.
As a caffeine fiend, I can honestly attest that Kopi Joss was one of the main highlights of my trip. My hostess welcomed me to squat down on a mat spread out on the curb whilst preparing this fiery concoction. Kopi Joss is a fitting homage, given that the city is surrounded by active volcanoes. It starts off as strong but rather ordinary looking black coffee until a fiery hot coal transforms this innocuous looking cup of joe to an effervescent tribute to Vulcan. This full-bodied brew has a rich caramel flavour, quite contrary to what I would have expected. The charcoal undeniably enhances the taste of your brew and is said to help alleviate stomach ailments.
Borododur and Merapi.
A short drive from Jogja lies one of the largest Buddhist temple complexes in the world. Nestled in a lush forest surrounded by two active volcanoes, this massive temple complex takes you back to an era when Buddhism was the dominant force in Java.
Whilst it is relatively expensive, I would recommend taking the Borobodur sunrise pass. It is a truly surreal experience watching the sun breathe life into the inanimate stone structure. With a fairly small contingent of tourists and a few orange robed monks, I was able to capture some awe-inspiring images of the temple at dawn. Nothing can quite prepare you for the dreamlike state you experience whilst ambling through the stone complex watching the surrounding hills and forests shrouded in a thick fog. The Sunrise package includes breakfast, with an European influence courtesy, the Dutch. Furthermore the dawn tour allows you avoid the scorching heat later in the day.
After exploring the Borobodur complex, my Uber driver proceeded to take me to site number two: Mount Merapi. ‘Merapi’ which literally means Fire Mountain in Indonesian and Javanese, is the most active Volcano in Indonesia. Upon reaching the end of the motorable road, I hired out an old school Willys 4x4 to circumnavigate the rough terrain leading up to the a close view of the mountain. The 4x4 drive is not for the faint hearted and those with back problems. For most part you will be hanging to the edge of your seat whilst taking in the trail of destruction left behind by the most recent eruption and lava flow. We briefly stopped by a few houses and shops that were victim to the last eruption. It is quite unreal to imagine people living in the shadow of such imminent danger. The small row of houses and shops now resemble a ghost town. Trotting along further on what were once paved roads, completely decimated by the lava flow. Upon reaching the cliffs surrounding the crater and summit of the peak, you do get an idea of the destructive power of the volcano in the valley below. Unfortunately for me, it was a rather overcast day and Merapi was shrouded in a thick blanket of clouds. I sipped on some strong black coffee, enjoying the cool rainy conditions high up on the mountain. I was given to understand that the Willys 4WD now run on Toyota engines, though the rest of the chassis is stock. It is remarkable how the jeeps put up with the kind of abuse they are subjected to. We examined the sites of lava flow along with a massive boulder that was hurled out during a recent eruption.
Merapi invokes a sense of wonderment at the raw destructive power of nature, this being my first close encounter with Vulcan.
The remains of what used to be a paved road.
Java Jazz Festival
Invariably one of the highlights of my trip, Java Jazz did live up to its share of hype. With a lineup of musicians ranging from guitar virtuosos Lee Ritenour and Larry Carton, the Commodores, Incognito to contemporary R&B artist Daniel Caeser and the Goo Goo Dolls. Having multiple stages and such a varied lineup, Java Jazz offers options to those not too inclined to imbibe in the downbeat rhythms without necessarily diluting the focus of the festival. The outdoor stages showcase some of Indonesia’s finest talent, in addition to musical instrument stalls. Whilst many music festivals have shifted to their energies to creating a so called ‘festival vibe’, marketing speak for appealing to the masses and looking good on Instagram, it is refreshing to see musicians and the actual process of creating music taking precedence at the JJF. Local Indonesians make up the majority of the sophisticated musical congregation at this gathering. Southeast Asia never ceases to amaze me with its highly evolved music culture.
Bandung (In less than 24 hours)
The morning after the festival I decided to do a small detour to Bandung, to escape the bustle of Jakarta. With salubrious weather and distinctly European feel, the city is aptly named Paris of the East. Whilst it is possible to travel by road, the train is the most sensible and economical option, with ticket prices starting at IDR80,000 (approximately USD5.4).Furthermore the train journey takes you through some breathtaking scenery ranging from terraced rice plantations to lush green forests.
Upon arriving in the city I was greeted with a drizzle of cool rain. After hustling my way through Jakarta, Bandung did come across as a much more hospitable place. Despite language difficulty, my blue bird driver from the station was keen to help me plan my itinerary around the city. In less than an hour of arriving in the city, I had a cab driver and a tour guide for the following day.
My night meal consisted of Indonesian noodles with an egg fried in an iron skillet right off the street and washed down with black coffee. Quite honestly this was a truly gourmet take on instant noodles with a sprinkling of peanuts and herbs. Bandung does surprise you with its unique take on food. I am told that the Dutch influence on food is felt strongest around here than in any other part of Indonesia.
Aside from the food the city has a thriving coffee scene. Due to a limited time in the city I was unable to explore Kopi Luwak Cikole, and try the much acclaimed cat poop coffee, or Kopi Luwak.
Kawah Putih
After a brief snooze, I set off to visit Kawah Putih a volcanic crater lake, some 50km away from town in the wee hours of the morning. This was my first excursion into the lush green countryside that surrounds the city. As opposed to Jakarta, Bandung has a rather striking first world feel to it. As one begins to climb upwards towards the crater, you are presented with some breathtaking panoramas of verdant valleys and ubiquitous plantations along the way. I am given to understand that the location witnesses heavy traffic over the weekend. If you prefer solitude, planning a trip on a weekday makes better sense. Having traveled on a weekday I was fortunate to have the location almost all to myself, barring a few Indonesian tourists who came in later.
At 2430m above sea level, Kawah Putih does feel rather cold. It is hard to imagine the crater’s proximity to the equator going by the cool weather conditions. My cab took me all the way up to a parking lot at Kawah Putih. After a short walk up the mountain I was presented with a wide flight of stairs descending to this lake of sulphur. Greeted with noxious volcanic fumes and an ethereal bluish green lake, this alien landscape takes your breath away with its eerie lifeless aura. Quite unlike any natural phenomenon I’ve seen before. The greenish-blue lake might look inviting, but the barren vegetation bordering the lake is a bleak reminder of the destructive powers at work.
After a long drive back to town and another quick snooze, I strolled along Cihampelas Walk, exploring the food options and finally settling for a Mie Ayam. Bandung is home to several factory outlets, so it is a great place to grab big brands at throwaway prices.
My early morning train ride to Jakarta and subsequent cab to the airport bought about an end to my Javanese adventure. However with another trip coming up soon, I will write another more comprehensive location report.
Possibly the best Nasi Goreng on this trip.
After stocking up on Indonesian coffee and Sambal sauce, I feasted on my last Indonesian meal of the trip, looking forward to many more trips.
